Socks 4 & 5

I'm really beginning to think I could keep making socks forever.


For one thing, the available yarns are fabulous. The colors and fabrications are as varied as a menu at Denny's. In addition, sock yarn is priced from well under $10.00 to well over $50.00. I look for the less expensive yarns in the sale bin and have not been disappointed.


Sock 1 (never to see the light of day so don't try looking for it) and Socks 2 & 3 were made out of a varigated cotton blend. Socks 4 & 5 were made out of an acrylic blend that looks like fine merino wool. I have a few more balls of yarn to knit up that range from fine wool blends to mystery fibers as I lost the labels.


Anyway, socks 4 & 5 are completed and have gone home to Paul. I used the same pattern as for 2 & 3 and I think I almost have it memoriazed. I think I will knit at least one more pair in that pattern until I try something a little more complex like a cable or lace pattern.


Here's a crappy picture, taken with my DSi of 4 & 5 on Paul's girlfriend's feet.

Note the remians of one of Alex's toys next to her left foot.

One benefit of a crappy picture is that you can't see the big mistake I made on one of them... it's all a blur :-).

Have a great weekend!

BTW - here is the pattern I have been using. I got it off someone else's blog but for the life of me I can't find it again. If this is your pattern or if you know who it belongs to, please let me know so that I can give credit where credit is due.

100 Gram Socks
100 gm sock yarn –This pattern works for any sock yarn with a 28-30 stitch gauge1 set of 2.5mm/US 1 double-pointed needles

Gauge:32 stitches, unstretched, across 4 inches/10cm in K3 P1 rib with 2.5mm/US 1 needles.

Cuff:Cast 60 stitches onto a single needle. Distribute stitches evenly across 3 needles. Join, being careful not to twist.

Work 15 cm/6 inches of K3 P1 ribbing, as follows:
Round 1: *K3, p1; repeat from * to end of round. Repeat this for every round.

Turn Heel:This portion is worked in stockinette stitch.

Knit first 27 stitches. Put remaining 33 stitches onto a holder. Starting with a purl row, work 21 rows of stocking stitch, slipping the first stitch of every row. The right side is facing for next row.

RS: Knit 18 stitches, SKP, turn
WS: Slip 1, purl 9 stitches, p2tog, turn
RS: Slip 1, knit 9 stitches, SKP, turn

Repeat last two rows until all stitches have been worked. Ensure right side is facing for next row. 11 stitches remain on the needle.

Re-establish Round and Create Gusset:

Knit all heel stitches.

Using that same needle, pick up and knit 15 stitches along selvedge edge at side of heel, using slipped stitches as a guide.

With a new needle, work in pattern across the 33 stitches of instep – those stitches that you’d set aside on the stitch holder.

Using another new needle, pick up and knit 15 stitches along selvedge edge at other side of heel, using slipped stitches as a guide. Work 6 stitches from the first needle.

The beginning of the round is now at the centre of the heel. There should be 20 stitches on the first needle, the 33 stitches of the instep on the second, and 21 on the third. Rearrange the stitches if you need to.


Decrease Gusset:Work a round even – keeping the instep stitches in pattern and the balance in stockinette stitch– twisting all picked-up stitches.

Work a decrease round as follows:

Needle 1: Knit to last three stitches, k2tog, k1.
Needle 2: Work all stitches in pattern.
Needle 3: K1, ssk, knit to end.

Work an even round, keeping continuity of pattern.

Repeating these last two rounds until Needles 1 has 13 stitches and Needle 3 has 14. 60 stitches total on your needles.

Work until foot measures 5 cm/2 inches less than desired length.

Shape Toe: From here on in, you’ll work entirely in stockinette stitch.

Rearrange the stitches so that you’ve got 15 each on Needles 1 and 3, and 30 on Needle 2.

Work a decrease round, as follows:

Needle 1: Knit to last three stitches, k2tog, k1.
Needle 2: K1, SSK, knit to last three stitches, k2tog, k1.
Needle 3: K1, SSK, knit to end.

Work 3 rounds even.

Work a decrease round followed by 2 even rounds, twice. [6 rounds total]

Work a decrease round followed by 1 even round, three times. [6 rounds total]

Work 7 more decrease rounds. 8 stitches remain.

To finish, either graft together final stitches or cut yarn, draw through the final stitches and tighten. Weave in ends.